Tutorial: Bow Tie Jersey Shirt

Have a couple of long T-shirts that you love? Or maybe a meter of jersey knit laying around that you don’t know what to do with…but you just love the fabric? The bow tie jersey shirt – make it!

I’m sure you’ve seen a few tutorials like this out there – this one is better. There are a few extra steps, but it creates a more polished and professional looking shirt. It has finished edges and doesn’t look so raggedy. Maybe it’s me, but I find that if I do it right the first time, not only will I wear the piece more, I’ll get more compliments on it. It feels good when someone asks – hey, where did you get that?…I like it and want one. Ah, total score!

What you need

2 pieces of jersey 25×30 (unless you want it really baggy – go 30×30) – this will hit mid-butt. If you want it longer, go with 25×35 or 40.
2 pieces of silk or lining (for the tie) 6.5×45.5 (or 3 pieces 6.5×30.8)
Matching thread (for both the silk and jersey)
Machine

Step One

First – make sure your fabric matches nicely – and then cut everything out (on the right grain, of course). The grain should always be going up and down on your jersey pieces (head to toe).

Step Two

Now, we’ll work on the sash or the bow tie. If you have a pattern, like I do, it’s important to make sure you match them up. I didn’t match mine up perfectly, but can you imagine if I would have stitched the other side, the seam line would then act like a mirror and one side would look upside down. Just another step to creating a great piece.

Once all the sash pieces are matched up (with a .5 seam allowance), stitch. Now you’ll have one piece that’s 6.5×90. Iron your seam (with a cloth overtop!).

Step Three

Now, fold long ways, like a hot dog. Stitch with a .5 seam allowance. Be sure to leave a small opening (in the middle somewhere), so you can turn it right side out.

Step Four

Before you turn it right side out, we need to create the ends. About 2.5-3 inches in on each end, stitch at a 45 degree angle to the outside corner. Keep this stitch as straight as possible.

Clip all the excess – the ends and the long side (don’t clip too much where you’ve got your opening – you’ll need that extra bit to stitch it closed).

Step Five

Now, turn the sash right side out through the hole that you left. Stitch closed the opening using the ladder stitch. Iron and set aside.

Step Six

Time for the body of the shirt. Iron out both pieces.

First – on each long side of the jersey, create a hem about .3 inches. Top stitch. This will help keep the shirt looking polished! We’ll also hem the bottom, but not yet.

Step Seven

Now, create a casing at the top about 1.5-2 inches. Top stitch. Do this to both pieces of jersey.

Notice how the sides of the casing look polished because of the side hem? They’re not all raggedy. You’re a professional!

Step Eight

Feed the sash through both jersey pieces (ensuring that the front is facing out).

Step Nine

You’ll need to try it on at this point. It’s a little awkward, but you’ll want it to fit right. See how the sides are wide open? You need to know how far up to stitch. I tried mine on and used a safety pin to indicate where to stop. Also – make sure it’s level on both sides. We don’t want your shirt to look all lopsided!

Step Ten

Top stitch the sides until your marker point. Try it on. Decide on how long you want your top. I wanted mine to hit mid-butt, so I needed to hem about 1 inch. You’ll notice that the back is shorter than the front – that’s because the shirt hangs lower on your chest than it does on your back (at least it does on me). You’ll want to create a straight hem, so you might loose and inch in length here. Top stitch your hem and you’re done!