It’s project time – DIY headboard time, to be exact. You can see from the photo below that I’m a little behind in sharing this project since it’s not all green outside. Nope, we have snow no grass right now.
This project started this past summer. We knew we wanted a headboard in our second guest room, yet we didn’t really like the idea of paying $800 for one. In browsing a few sites I came across an article from Apartment Therapy – Best Upholstered Fabric Headboards. We fell in love with the one from West Elm. So, we decided to take a shot and make it ourselves. We did it, too; and for less than $80! Here’s our tutorial!
First, you’ll need to decide on your size – that’s all custom and up to you, depending on your bed frame and personal style. We went with a queen size and made each section 14 inches high.
- 2x4s – custom measurements
- 1 sheet of flake board
- wood screws
- metal joining plates (I think that’s what they’re called – Bryce is sleeping so I can’t ask)
- wood glue
- table saw
- staple gun
Get all your supplies and tools ready. This project took about 3 hours, not including the time for the glue to dry (maybe an added hour or two).
Decide on all of your measurements and mark all the wood, then cut.
Lay everything down on the floor to ensure it’s all the right size.
To help us, we actually used painter’s tape in the guest room to map out the headboard and then checked on it day-to-day to see if it was the right size. We did make modifications, so I suggest doing that first so you know you’re happy with the dimensions of your project.
Time to make the cleat. This headboard is heavy and we want to make sure it stays on the wall, hence the cleat.
Be sure the cleat fits inside of the frame.
Time to assemble the headboard.
Make a comb or use a scrap piece of wood and glue all of your 2x4s to the flake board. Use wood screws for added strength.
Let’s round the edges.
See the pencil line – that’s how we want to curve each section, making it look full and fluffy.
Use the table saw and cut on an angle and then use a belt sander to shape further.
Nice and round edges.
Time to wrap up.
Each section is wrapped individually. Double layer of batting and then one layer of fabric. We decided on our pleating for the corners first – this took about 15 minutes of trying different folds out. Whichever way you pick to fold, just be consistent.
Now time to join all 4 sections together. Do one at a time and use clamps to hold the sections in place.
We used these metal joiners with nails. They cause the headboard to be quite flexible when you’re lifting it, so be careful not to bend it, yet it provides flexibility along our no to perfectly straight wall (it’s only off by 1/8-1/4 of an inch).
All joined – and you can see one of Lily’s favour toys, Lara keeping an eye on us.
Install the cleat and then hang it up.
Done! Now you have yourself a fresh and new headboard. Stay tuned later this week for more photos of our guest room. I’ll show you some up close photos so you can see all the finishing details.
Thanks so much for visiting and I hope you have fun working on your own projects. Happy Saturday.
This little owl bag is perfect for travelling as a make-up bag, carrying books, or even housing pottery tools! Have you seen the pottery Bryce and I made? Check it out if you haven’t yet. Okay, back to this bright and cheery bag. I made it similar to the make-up bag I made back in 2015, but I did a bit more detail with it. I incorporated what I did with the clutch and added in some topstitching. Time to get started!
What You Need
- 2 pieces of fabric that measure:
- 7 inches by 14 inches for the outside top
- 2 inches by 14 inches for the outside middle
- 7 inches by 14 inches for the outside bottom
- 14 inches by 14 inches for the inside
- 1 piece of fabric that measures 6 inches by 5 inches for the pocket
- 2 pieces of fabric cut 3 inches by 4 inches for the zipper ends
- 1 piece of fabric that measures 4 inches by 7 inches for the pull
- piece of ribbon that is 8 inches long.
- 14 inch zipper
- matching thread
- ironing board
First, gather all of your fabric that’s been pre-washed and cut.
Then, it’s time for the pocket. I’m putting a little pocket with a tag on the inside. Serge all edges of your pocket to reinforce it. Then, turn each side inward and pin. Topstitch all around – all you’re doing is stitching the folded underpart to itself so it stays in place. After that, pin it in place on the right side of the inside fabric, add your label and topstitch all around except the top – the pocket opening.
Up next, use your serger to stitch the outside top to the outside middle. Then, stitch the the outside middle to the outside bottom. Double top stitch along those two seams. Press with a hot iron. Add the two zipper ends to the end of the zipper. The make-up bag tutorial explains that part well.
Time to sandwich the zipper. Place the inside fabric right side up. Then, lay down the zipper, right side up, and match the top of the zipper with the top of the lining. Sandwich the zipper by placing the outside fabric, right side down, lining it up with the top of the zipper. The tab you made for the zipper ends, they will stick out. Don’t worry, we’ll take care of those later. Use your zipper foot and stitch. Then flip and do the same on the opposite side.
Once the zipper is on, open the zipper. Lay the two inside pieces right sides together and the two outside pieces right sides together. Press. Now serge along all 4 sides, yet leave a 4 inch opening on the two inside bottom pieces. This will allow you to turn the bag right side out. Using the zipper ends is key here, since you’ll serge through those and not your zipper. That’s why it’s important to clip off the excess zipper ends.
Now, before you turn the bag right side out, box off all 4 corners. I used a boxed corner of 4 inches. Press and turn right side out. Press again. Topstitch the opening on the inside fabric together.
Take your time – see how clean the zipper ends are and the boxed corners? Ensure you press your work and line it up well.
String your ribbon through the zipper. Fold the piece of fabric that measures 7×4 in half like a hot dog. Press. Now open and fold each side inward to the marked line. You piece will now measure 1 inch wide. Press. Open fully and press each end inward 1/2 and inch. Keep the end fold intact and fold back to 1 inch wide. Press again. Fold in half lengthwise and press. With the ribbon strung through the zipper put the ends inside the open short end of the zipper pull. Top stitch all around.
This bag is fun and energetic. I just love the brightness of the fabric. Happy sewing and thanks for visiting!
Christmas stockings and pillows. It’s time to get sewing.
Christmas is tomorrow! Tomorrow?! That’s flat out exciting. Today I’m going to share my last sewing post of the series 52 Weeks of Sewing. Yes, I’ve done a sewing project a week for the last year and it’s coming to a close. This week I’m combining two tutorials. I’ve already done versions of these, yet I’ve got a bit of an update for this year. These Christmas stockings and pillows are coordinated and festive. Let’s get started!
What You Need
- stocking tutorial
- 1/2 a yard of outside fabric
- 1/2 a yard of inside fabric
- 1/4 a yard of fur for cuff
- matching thread
- ironing board
- pillow tutorial
- 1/2 a yard of fabric
- 1/8 yard of fabric for state/province
- 12 inch zipper
- matching thread
- ironing board
First – gather all of your supplies and visit the stocking tutorial and the pillow tutorial. I’ll walk you through the changes below.
Follow the stocking tutorial with one change. I didn’t splice the fur cuff in half for two reasons – it’s hard to sew and it looks better as one piece.
So, how do you make the stocking reversible? Just leave an opening on the inside (I did mine in grey again) and leave a large 3 inch opening along the back side of the stocking. Then, top stitch the whole inside part of the stocking (don’t catch the plaid side). You’ll top stitch it much like the reversible dog stocking. This will close up the hole and the outside (in my case the plaid) will look polished.
Okay – this step is right after you cut your squares out. Get an outline of what you want to put on your pillow. It could be a moose head or letters. In my case, the state of Texas and the province of Alberta. Both places Bryce and I have lived together.
Cut out the shape in contrasting fabric. Then press. Pin, and use a lot of pins, the shape in the centre. Top stitch on a medium length. Go slowly so you catch all the little edges. Then, follow the rest of the pillow tutorial as usual.
That’s it – just a few modifications on some classic tutorials. The pillows are so awesome and the stockings are great too. These Christmas stockings and pillows turned out so well. I’ll be excited to unpack them again next year, too.
Thanks for stopping by and I wish you and your family a happy holiday!