What? I know – it’s a odd topic found here on 3ten.ca, but it has a purpose.
Most of you know Bryce and I fix up old Boler trailers and send them off into the world with happy new owners. Thus far we’ve done 4 and we’ve kept Tipsy, which makes 5. On Instagram we’ve been asked more than a handful of times about fiberglass. So, this post is for those who are looking for a bit of direction.
Know that we’re total DIYers – our own brand of expert. We are knowledgeable and you can see some of our results below.
How to Fiberglass a Boler
I’ll share some tips and then also one of the most helpful videos ever for learning how to fiberglass.
You’ll want to sand down all the fiberglass, yet on the area you’re going to repair, you’ll need to do a bit more sanding – ensure you sand down the gel coat fully around a large hole if you’re going to completely fill it in. Also, make sure you wear a mask – the fiberglass and resin can be quite harmful if inhaled.
Large Void Tips
Okay, the video I’ll share below goes over quite a bit of detail, yet it’s mainly for fiberglassing over something specific – not covering negative space. So, I want to talk a bit about that.
We covered about 9 fully void holes on Tipsy.
First, we lined a piece of wood with parchment paper. Then, from the back side of the void we screwed it in place. Fiberglass won’t stick to the parchment paper and you need something strong, like wood (not cardboard) which will give you resistance when applying your first coat.
Then, once you have 2 or 3 layers (however many you think you need) – we did 3 and sanded down quite a bit – you’ll remove the wood, screws, and parchment paper.
Yes – you will have small screw holes – you can follow the tips below for those.
Small Imperfection Tips
On small holes, cracks, or large chips (too big for Bondo) we use fiberglass to do the repair. One big tip is to do all of your fiberglass work at one time, since it can be messy. So, identify all of your imperfections and spots that you want to repair. Then, cut out all the different shapes you’ll need. I prep them and Bryce does the application.
Work quickly since it will harden fast, depending on your resin to hardener ratio (another reason to do all the work at the same time – do the math only once!).
For these small imperfections you’ll most likely only need one layer of fiberglass and then you can sand down to make it smooth. The more accurate you are with cutting your shapes, the less sanding you’ll have to do (and the less fiberglass you’ll waste).
Since we were covering up a massive hole we had some small imperfections in the larger sections. As such, we used this fiberglass filler.
You’ll sand the finished fiberglass work, then fill, sand, then fill a bit more, and sand again.
One trick we learned – don’t eyeball it. Close your eyes and feel with your hand. You can feel the imperfections much easier than you can see them. Also, don’t underestimate those tiny issues – they will magnify when you paint.
Here the large back window is completed – fiberglassed, sanded, filled, and feels smooth.
Below you can see the finished product painted – looks so good!
Guess how many holes are actually on this side of the trailer? There are 3 – yes, we covered 3 completely void holes on this side alone. Cool, eh?
Tackling the fiberglass work yourself can seem like a daunting task – take it from us, you can do it! Get the right tools, the right products, and the right direction and you’ll be all set.
Here’s the Fiberglassing Video Tutorial I love!
Thanks so much for visiting and reading. I hope this helps give even just one person the confidence to tackle fiberglassing themselves. Happy repairing!
It’s project time – DIY headboard time, to be exact. You can see from the photo below that I’m a little behind in sharing this project since it’s not all green outside. Nope, we have snow no grass right now.
This project started this past summer. We knew we wanted a headboard in our second guest room, yet we didn’t really like the idea of paying $800 for one. In browsing a few sites I came across an article from Apartment Therapy – Best Upholstered Fabric Headboards. We fell in love with the one from West Elm. So, we decided to take a shot and make it ourselves. We did it, too; and for less than $80! Here’s our tutorial!
First, you’ll need to decide on your size – that’s all custom and up to you, depending on your bed frame and personal style. We went with a queen size and made each section 14 inches high.
- 2x4s – custom measurements
- 1 sheet of flake board
- wood screws
- metal joining plates (I think that’s what they’re called – Bryce is sleeping so I can’t ask)
- wood glue
- table saw
- staple gun
Get all your supplies and tools ready. This project took about 3 hours, not including the time for the glue to dry (maybe an added hour or two).
Decide on all of your measurements and mark all the wood, then cut.
Lay everything down on the floor to ensure it’s all the right size.
To help us, we actually used painter’s tape in the guest room to map out the headboard and then checked on it day-to-day to see if it was the right size. We did make modifications, so I suggest doing that first so you know you’re happy with the dimensions of your project.
Time to make the cleat. This headboard is heavy and we want to make sure it stays on the wall, hence the cleat.
Be sure the cleat fits inside of the frame.
Time to assemble the headboard.
Make a comb or use a scrap piece of wood and glue all of your 2x4s to the flake board. Use wood screws for added strength.
Let’s round the edges.
See the pencil line – that’s how we want to curve each section, making it look full and fluffy.
Use the table saw and cut on an angle and then use a belt sander to shape further.
Nice and round edges.
Time to wrap up.
Each section is wrapped individually. Double layer of batting and then one layer of fabric. We decided on our pleating for the corners first – this took about 15 minutes of trying different folds out. Whichever way you pick to fold, just be consistent.
Now time to join all 4 sections together. Do one at a time and use clamps to hold the sections in place.
We used these metal joiners with nails. They cause the headboard to be quite flexible when you’re lifting it, so be careful not to bend it, yet it provides flexibility along our no to perfectly straight wall (it’s only off by 1/8-1/4 of an inch).
All joined – and you can see one of Lily’s favour toys, Lara keeping an eye on us.
Install the cleat and then hang it up.
Done! Now you have yourself a fresh and new headboard. Stay tuned later this week for more photos of our guest room. I’ll show you some up close photos so you can see all the finishing details.
Thanks so much for visiting and I hope you have fun working on your own projects. Happy Saturday.
This little owl bag is perfect for travelling as a make-up bag, carrying books, or even housing pottery tools! Have you seen the pottery Bryce and I made? Check it out if you haven’t yet. Okay, back to this bright and cheery bag. I made it similar to the make-up bag I made back in 2015, but I did a bit more detail with it. I incorporated what I did with the clutch and added in some topstitching. Time to get started!
What You Need
- 2 pieces of fabric that measure:
- 7 inches by 14 inches for the outside top
- 2 inches by 14 inches for the outside middle
- 7 inches by 14 inches for the outside bottom
- 14 inches by 14 inches for the inside
- 1 piece of fabric that measures 6 inches by 5 inches for the pocket
- 2 pieces of fabric cut 3 inches by 4 inches for the zipper ends
- 1 piece of fabric that measures 4 inches by 7 inches for the pull
- piece of ribbon that is 8 inches long.
- 14 inch zipper
- matching thread
- ironing board
First, gather all of your fabric that’s been pre-washed and cut.
Then, it’s time for the pocket. I’m putting a little pocket with a tag on the inside. Serge all edges of your pocket to reinforce it. Then, turn each side inward and pin. Topstitch all around – all you’re doing is stitching the folded underpart to itself so it stays in place. After that, pin it in place on the right side of the inside fabric, add your label and topstitch all around except the top – the pocket opening.
Up next, use your serger to stitch the outside top to the outside middle. Then, stitch the the outside middle to the outside bottom. Double top stitch along those two seams. Press with a hot iron. Add the two zipper ends to the end of the zipper. The make-up bag tutorial explains that part well.
Time to sandwich the zipper. Place the inside fabric right side up. Then, lay down the zipper, right side up, and match the top of the zipper with the top of the lining. Sandwich the zipper by placing the outside fabric, right side down, lining it up with the top of the zipper. The tab you made for the zipper ends, they will stick out. Don’t worry, we’ll take care of those later. Use your zipper foot and stitch. Then flip and do the same on the opposite side.
Once the zipper is on, open the zipper. Lay the two inside pieces right sides together and the two outside pieces right sides together. Press. Now serge along all 4 sides, yet leave a 4 inch opening on the two inside bottom pieces. This will allow you to turn the bag right side out. Using the zipper ends is key here, since you’ll serge through those and not your zipper. That’s why it’s important to clip off the excess zipper ends.
Now, before you turn the bag right side out, box off all 4 corners. I used a boxed corner of 4 inches. Press and turn right side out. Press again. Topstitch the opening on the inside fabric together.
Take your time – see how clean the zipper ends are and the boxed corners? Ensure you press your work and line it up well.
String your ribbon through the zipper. Fold the piece of fabric that measures 7×4 in half like a hot dog. Press. Now open and fold each side inward to the marked line. You piece will now measure 1 inch wide. Press. Open fully and press each end inward 1/2 and inch. Keep the end fold intact and fold back to 1 inch wide. Press again. Fold in half lengthwise and press. With the ribbon strung through the zipper put the ends inside the open short end of the zipper pull. Top stitch all around.
This bag is fun and energetic. I just love the brightness of the fabric. Happy sewing and thanks for visiting!