Boler Trailer:

Project: Scooby Doo the Boler After

Scooby Doo the Boler After:

Scooby Doo the Boler After – did you see the before?! I told you it was such an incredible transformation.

From bright new windows, to new mould resistant hull liner, this 13 foot Boler is ready for some fun.

I think we put in about 200 hours into this project and did a few extras that we hadn’t planned on – like taking down the ensolite and replacing it with quality marine grade hull liner. If you want the full scope of the project, you can check us out on Instagram @tipsy.the.boler or check out our Boler page here on 3ten. Okay, time to see some more after photos.

Scooby Doo the Boler After

Boler Trailer:

That Tiffany blue is so bright and fresh. Complete with a matching propane tank and a new gas line and value. Oh, and a new jack and safety chains, too.


The two windows on the sides are brand new – they even crank out, which we find better than the slide ones, since this way you can use them in the rain, or snow!

Scooby Doo the Boler After:

One of our favourite features of this 1977 Boler is the vintage door window. We for sure kept it – it’s just too cool.

Scooby Doo the Boler After:

Time to head inside. The front section is a 3-way space. Bunk beds, a couch, or a dinette. It’s the best layout ever.

Trailer Bunk Beds:
Trailer Couch:
Trailer Dinette:

The kitchen and the back dinette – which converts to a bed for two, too.

Boler Kitchen:
Scooby Doo the Boler After:
Scooby Doo the Boler After:

Well, there you have it – Scooby Doo the Boler After in all his glory. We know he has many family camping trips ahead of him. Cheers to you, Scooby Doo – may you be happy on the road to adventure.

Scooby Doo the Boler After:

Happy camping.


  • Veronica

    You’ve done some incredible work! What dedication! I expect that by the third (?) resto/reno you are pretty confident in your process.

    I’ve just acquired a ’75 boler13, in reasonably good condition but needing a few repairs and adjustments. I’d love to fix the original 1.9 c.f. Tedco fridge but it doesn’t have a pulse so it seems to make more sense to spend the money on a new one. Scamp apparently has one that will more or less fit. I would like to swap out the original yellow door panel from the old fridge to the new one. First question: Have you ever done this? Do you think it’s possible?

    I am intrigued by your front bunk dinette modification. My lower bunk has a hinged board over the hole which is attached by two screws into the fiberglass (on the deck below the window) and hinges about 10cm back from the screws, so it lifts up for access. Second question: Did you just remove the whole board? or was there not one to begin with? This central space also has a cupboard door at the front to enclose that space, which is useful if there’s no table and which I could modify with lift-off hinges to keep it there for travel. (Pics woud help but I can’t attach them here).

    In your pics, when you have the front table up, the banana cushion is in front of the big upper bunk cushion, under the table, and I find that it actually takes up a lot of sitting space. When the table is down to make the lower bunk, the banana cushion is gone. Third question: Where do you hide it? And, where do you hide the table leg when it’s not in use?

    I’ve been pondering all this, trying to decide what to do and how to go about it, and have actually just found and ordered a folding table that is almost the same size as the removable board, and I plan to attach the board to the table top and use that in order to avoid making holes in the floor and also to be able to take it outside. The feet may be about 2cm too long for the space but I can cut those off and reattach the rubber ends, and also there’s less leg room under it than your pedestal version, but being able to take it outside would be handy and it’s a cheap solution. If you look up soundance folding table on amazon you will find it and see what I am talking about. I hope it’s sturdy enough for the job, but if not, I plan to try your method.

    Sorry for the overly detailed message, but if you have time and some answers I would be very appreciative!

    You’re lucky I didn’t ask you ALL my questions!! Best wishes!

    • Ali

      Hi Veronica,

      Congrats on your new-to-you Boler! So fun.

      We generally use iceboxes, since we like to run a little off the grid. Although we’ve used Scamp parts (like windows and hinges) we have not used their fridge. With regards to the front bunk and dinette – it’s not a modification, but the way Scooby Doo was built. There are a handful of versions that have the front dinette configuration (the frame is lower in front to allow for the table). Feel free to check out our Instagram @tipsy.the.boler and search the hashtag #scoobydootheboler you can see the entire process. As for the cushion, you can put it anywhere you like – store it in the back of your SUV, on the back bed, or even on top of the bunk. It’s all about making the space your own and finding out what works for you.

      Take care and all the best!

    • Nancy J Flemming

      Hi Ali, love what you have done to your trailer. I am in the midst of a partial reno on my 1976 boler. Veronica has asked a number of questions regarding the front dinette. In my boler the banana cushion fits under the top bunk/backrest. the hinged lid she is referring too with the cupboard door in front houses the porta potti. Many have taken this out and put in a front dinette, which I am doing. I also cut the centre seat cushion in half which will be used as the backs for seats when sitting at the table, but can be put down for the bunk if required for sleeping. has lots of information on how to do this. They are a wealth of good information.

      • Ali

        Thanks for sharing, Nancy!

        The frame we have is inset, and the fiberglass piece was built right down to the floor, so no hinge for a porta-potty.

        Happy camping!

  • Nadja Hall

    Hi Ali!
    I absolutely love seeing and reading about your fun projects!
    You mentioned that you have a better way to do the marine hull liner. Do you have any tips at all? I am stalling as I am slightly intimidated.
    I bought my ’71 boler without my husband knowing when he was on a ski trip. I knew nothing, only that I trusted I would be able to do this! I needed a project that would challenge me and a project that I knew nothing about. I have learned so much and am already dreaming of the next and I haven’t even finished this little passion project yet.
    I have my insulation done, but I have no pattern for the liner….. should I roughly draw the seams on insulation from photos I have collected and then try to go from there? My husband isn’t allowed to help me.:) I am so very excited about my process!
    I look forward to hearing from you. Any tips would be gratefully appreciated!
    Have a good night! I should have been in bed long ago, but got swept up in your site!
    Take care,

    • Ali

      Hi Nadja,

      Your Boler overhaul adventure sounds so fun! With the hull liner, templates will be your friend. My suggestion is to start with the ceiling and then the corners – if you get those done the rest will be easy to template. You might need a helping hand for the ceiling piece since it’ll work best if it’s one continuous piece. We also found that taping off the hull liner once it’s installed before putting the next piece in place helps protect the fabric from getting the 3M product on it. Hope that helps and happy renovating!

    • Ali

      Hi Megan,

      We purchased them from Scamp – not too sure if they make them anymore, though. Last time we checked they only made the sliders.

  • Tina

    Sorry for not replying sooner. I need everything to install a bunk bed. I was thinking I need to get some scaffolding parts or iron poles, I have no idea, looking for your suggestion please.

    • Ali

      Hi Tina!

      When you say everything, do you at least have the piece that’s sticking out of the body to support the bunk? It’s about a 1-2 inch lip that looks like the one at the back of the Boler where the table connects. This is the first thing you’ll need. If you don’t have it, you’ll need manufacture it yourself which will involve fiberglass work on the inside of the body.

      From there, do you have the wooden plank that makes up the bottom of the top bed (or the back of the back of the couch)? If you don’t, again, you’ll have to get one manufactured (take measurements of your Boler, we find each one is just a little different – best to make it custom). Keep in mind it has two pieces that fold in on the sides that are on hinges (this allows the bed piece to fold a little and match the curve of the Boler when it’s in the couch position).

      After that, you’ll need brackets or hinges to attach the wooden piece to the body. Any chance you’re on Instagram? We’ve done tutorials on the bunks on our Boler Overhaul profile: @tipsy.the.boler

      Then, once you have those pieces, you’ll need poles and brackets for the poles to sit in. We recently found a solution for these and will be posting about it in the next few months on Instagram – stay tuned.

      Hope that helps gives you some guidance. The process for what you’re after is huge – since fiberglassing alone is about a 15 step process from pre to finish. Best of luck and have fun!

      • Lorrie Guggisberg

        Wow you guys do beautiful work. I just purchased a 1978 boler. I have a bunk bed question.
        I have purchased all of the parts you have suggested from Home Depot. I have the fiberglass ‘lip’ below the window. I also have the back couch cushion. Do I also need to put a piece of plywood under the back couch cushion for extra support or is the cushion alone enough?
        If I need a piece of wood, what kind, thickness?
        New to the reno world…Thank you.

        • Ali

          Hi Lorrie,

          Yes – you’ll need a piece of wood (we suggest 3/4 inch) for the cushion that makes the top bunk – otherwise, it’ll be too flimsy. Also, the sides of that piece of wood usually flank with added pieces that are on hinges to allow the cushion to bend when acting as the back of the couch, to match the curve of the boler.

          Hope that helps – happy renovating!

  • Tracy

    Hi Ali,

    I’m so glad that you have this blog and your Tumblr account. I recently inherited a 1976 Boler. It seems to be in a decent state, and we’ve spent some money getting everything in working order. Now on to the interior. I’m making curtains and doing a little updating to the cupboard and closet doors. We will see how that turns out! I have a question about flooring. The Boler currently has carpet and it is filthy! Any idea how hard it is to rip up the carpet and replace it with lino flooring or other carpet? Also… should we decide we REALLY love the Boler and want to go “hog wild” and completely redo everything that needs it, is that something you do for other people?

    I’m super happy you’re an Alberta gal, me too!
    Chat soon,

    • Ali

      Hi Tracy,

      I totally missed your comment – so sorry about that.

      Lucky on the 1976 Boler – what a gem! Hope the reno is going well. As for the flooring, it’s up to you. We usually use 3/4 Birch for strength and durability. Back in 2014 we put in vinyl in Tipsy and with the heat it just lifted. When we re-do Tipsy we’ll most likely go for something that’s durable and tough so we don’t have to worry while we’re camping.

      As for doing work for others, we only work on Boler trailers we own. If you’re on Instagram, you should check us out there, too; since not everything can get pushed to Tumblr.

      Happy camping!

  • Sara Driediger

    Hi guys! You guys a a huge part of why I bought my Boler and I am getting ready to do some updates on it! Any suggestions for paint and how to choose it? I noticed you used Cloverdale paint on your newest reno, but was that just for the white gloss? How about the actual coloured portion?

    I was also curious if there is any way to preserve the original decals or if there is a way to remake them to add on later. I still have the window covers that days ‘Boler’ in large letters and the ‘b-1300’ on the door that I would love to keep. Sadly the paint is so sun-damaged that I will have to give it a paint.

    Lastly, any suggestions for painting the interior of the trailer? I love the all white (and all white kitchenette) and I had plans to do the same. Any particular paint that is better than another for this?

    All the best,
    Sara D.

    • Ali

      Hi Sara!

      For paint we use either automotive paint or the marine grade enamel from Cloverdale (you can pick colours, too!). We actually just shared a post on Instagram today about the colour we picked for Nikki. The original decals are hard – of course, if it has emblems you can take them off and clean them up. Then attach again after paint. There are a few places that make replica decals, yet we’ve never used them. For the interior, we’ve recently used the same white Cloverdale paint since it has the ability to hold up well. Have fun, Sara!

  • Jen

    Beautiful Bolers! Mine is a 1970. Ive noticed that the cooktop and sometimes the sinks are white. Did you have them re-enameled? I wanted to paint them but I didn’t think the paint would hold up very well. Thank you

    • Ali


      We’ve sandblasted both the stove and the sinks and then painted them with marine grade enamel (which we spray on). Spraying it on allows for thin coats which have the opportunity to cure between each application making it a bit stronger than bushing or rolling. Then again, we’ve had stainless sinks, too. Hope that helps!


    How did you add the bunk bed.? I really want to add one to my 1978 Boler for more sleeping area. Need it to hold an adult or two small girls. Need it secured, permanently mounted, any ideas?

    • Ali

      Hi Tina,

      The bunk is usually built into the Boler already – the support at the front for Scooby Doo is fiberglassed into the shell for added strength. Then the bed folds up on hinges and the cushion is supported by a piece of wood that adds support. Lastly, the bed hinges up and is supported by two poles for added strength and stability.

      Are you looking to add a bunk where there is no support in the body? Or are you just missing the cushion/wood piece and the poles?

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