Sewing: Week Eight Men's Zip-up Hoodie — 3ten

Week Eight

Men’s zip-up hoodie – the McCall’s pattern M6614 says it’s easy, yet I still find anything with a zipper a bit of a challenge. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not afraid or anything, it’s just I’m cautious and aware of the process. It’s still a little new to me even though I’ve probably used about 50 zippers in my almost 4 years of sewing.

This hoodie is just awesome. My husband loves the bright colours – well, sometimes – and it fits well.

Let me walk you through some tips and tricks on this pattern.

First, you’re not restricted to what the pattern says regarding contrasting colours. I picked pattern D and although it says that the pockets are in the main colour, I made them out of the contrasting colour. Feel free to play around – make the hood all one colour, or pick some ribbing that it’s such a contrasting colour, yet maybe more complimentary. You could do a deep grey for the ribbing or contrasting colour and match it with a deep wine colour for a less obvious contrast. Or even match – you pick – it’s your style.

Cut our your pattern pieces and let’s get started.

On jacked D – I started with the pockets, just as they suggested.

The one thing I didn’t do, though, was baste. I used my serger for all but the top stitching on the pockets. You can see that instead of basting, I just serged the upper edge of the pocket. Then, I folded it right side out and pressed the back side.

You can see how polished the pocket looks once right side is up and pressed again.

Then, I top stitched using contrasting thread – your call on the thread. When I decided to go for it, it was a bit stressful since my lines aren’t any where near perfectly straight.

Okay – time to pin the pocket in place. The first thing I did was serge the pocket to the bottom and the zipper side. This helped to keep it in place when top stitching. Then, top stitch the top edge of the pocket (with the edge under so the raw edge isn’t showing) and repeat along the side edge.

Now, this pattern does what I love – it has you put the pattern together so the arm and side are all one long seam. Not every pattern is like this – in fact, when I did the Casual Men’s Pullover I suggested you make this adjustment so the piece is far more professional looking. Follow the rest of the pattern for the sleeve, cuffs and hem band.

Okay – time for the zipper. Back when I was taking sewing classes (yes, I took 2 in the summer of 2012 since I could barely spin a bobbin) I made PJ pants and a hoodie for my husband. On the hoodie it called for a front facing just like this pattern and he hates it – it flaps around and it’s just awkward. Rarely do other zip-up hoodies have them, so I decided to nix it. What this means is that you need to be even more on point with your zipper.

Serger – check.
Zipper – check.

Ah, what? Yes, I’m going to use my serge to attach my zipper. This, for me, is a bit outside my zone, but it might be a regular thing for you. Let me just say, I’m happy to join the club.

I referenced my ever-so-handy Baby Lock instructional guide for some assistance and it was helpful. Look how polished the zipper looks? So rad.

Now, just pick up with the hood and keep moving on.

Two things I skipped – I didn’t put the front facing in even though I cut it out and I didn’t top stitch on the outside along the neck seam. Using my serger creates a far more comfortable seam, so there really wasn’t a need to top stitch the seam down.

Below are some of the finished details up close.